Buying a Used Car: 10 Checks Before You Pay

A used car can be a great deal, or an expensive problem hiding under a nice paint job. A calm, step-by-step check helps you see what the seller doesn't mention. Bring a friend, go in daylight, and don't let anyone rush you into deciding on the spot.

Take your time, and check the car before you pay.

The ten checks

1. The papers. Check that the owner's name matches the documents, that the chassis number on the car matches the papers, and that nothing is owed on the car. The rules differ by country, so get local advice.
2. The service history. Regular service records are a good sign. Be careful if the seller has none.
3. The mileage. Compare the odometer with the service records and with the wear on the seats, pedals and steering wheel. A very low mileage with a very worn interior is suspicious.
4. The body. Walk around the car in daylight. Look for panels in slightly different colours, uneven gaps and rust, especially at the edges and under the doors.
5. The tires. Uneven wear can point to alignment or suspension problems.
6. Under the bonnet. Look for oil or coolant leaks, and for a milky substance under the oil cap. Check the fluid levels.
7. A cold start. Ask to start the engine cold. Listen for knocking and look for heavy smoke from the exhaust.
8. The inside. Test the windows, lights, locks, wipers, air conditioning and every dashboard light. A musty smell or damp carpets can mean water damage.
9. The test drive. Drive on different roads. Check that the car goes straight, the brakes feel firm, the gears change smoothly, and there are no strange noises or vibrations.
10. A professional inspection. Pay a trusted, independent mechanic to look at the car before you pay. It costs little compared with a hidden problem.

Hybrid and electric cars

Ask for a battery health report. The battery is the most expensive part, and its condition matters more than the paint.

Red flags

The seller refuses an inspection or a test drive. The price is far below similar cars. The papers are incomplete, or the seller is in a big hurry for cash.

Don't pay or sign anything before you've checked the papers and the car. If something feels wrong, walk away. There will always be another car.

General information only. Check your owner's manual, and ask a qualified mechanic if you're not sure.

Driving in Heavy Rain: 8 Tips to Stay Safe

 Heavy rain changes everything. The road is slippery, you can't see as far, and the car takes longer to stop. A few simple habits make driving in the rain much safer.

Slow down and leave more space when the road is wet.

Eight tips

1. Slow down. Lower speed gives you more time to react, and it cuts the risk of losing grip.
2. Leave more space. Stopping takes longer on a wet road, so keep a much bigger gap than usual.
3. Turn on your headlights. You need to see, and other drivers need to see you.
4. Be smooth. Brake, steer and accelerate gently. Sudden moves can start a skid.
5. Keep the glass clear. Use the demister and the air conditioning to stop the windows fogging, and make sure the wipers don't smear. Replace worn blades.
6. Take extra care at the start of the rain. The first rain can bring oil up to the surface and make the road very slippery.
7. Stay out of deep water. If you can't see how deep the water on the road is, don't drive through it. Water can stall or damage the engine, and it can float a car. Turn around.
8. Check your tires. Good tread and the right pressure help the tires push water away. Old, worn tires are dangerous in the rain.

What if the car aquaplanes?

Aquaplaning means the tires are riding on a layer of water and have lost contact with the road. The steering may suddenly feel light. Stay calm. Take your foot off the accelerator, hold the steering wheel straight, and don't brake hard or turn sharply. When you feel the grip come back, you can brake or steer gently again.

After driving through water

Test your brakes gently while driving slowly. Wet brakes can work less well for a moment. If they feel weak, press the pedal lightly a few times until they dry.

If the rain is so heavy that you can't see the road, find a safe place to stop, away from traffic and from the edge of the road, and wait.

The best time to check your wipers, lights and tires is before the rainy season starts, not during the first storm.

General information only. Check your owner's manual, and ask a qualified mechanic if you're not sure.

Brake Fluid: Why It Matters and When to Check It

 Everybody knows brake pads wear out. Far fewer people think about brake fluid. But this fluid is what carries the force from your foot to the brakes, so it's a key part of the safety system.

Brake fluid carries the force from your foot to the wheels.

What brake fluid does

When you press the pedal, the fluid moves through the brake lines and pushes the pads against the discs (or the shoes against the drums). The fluid can't be squeezed, so the force reaches all four wheels.

Why it needs changing

Brake fluid slowly absorbs moisture from the air. Over time that lowers the temperature at which it boils, and it can cause rust inside the system. In hard braking, for example on a long downhill, boiling fluid makes bubbles, and the pedal can feel soft or sink. That's why makers give a time interval for changing it, not just a distance. Check the interval in your manual.

How to check the level

1. Park on level ground and switch off the engine.
2. Find the brake fluid reservoir under the bonnet. It's a small, usually see-through container with MIN and MAX marks. Your manual shows where it is.
3. Wipe the outside clean and read the level from the side, without opening the cap if you can.
4. The level should be between MIN and MAX. Fresh fluid is usually clear or light amber, and old fluid looks darker.

What a low level can mean

The level drops slowly as the brake pads wear, which can be normal. A sudden or fast drop can mean a leak. In that case, don't drive the car, and have it checked right away.

Good to know

Use only the type of fluid your car needs. It's written on the reservoir cap and in the manual (for example DOT 4). Don't mix types unless the manual allows it. Brake fluid can damage paint, so wipe up any spill immediately. And leave the actual changing to a garage, because the system has to be bled correctly and air in the lines is dangerous.

Warning signs to take seriously: a soft or spongy pedal, a pedal that slowly sinks, a brake warning light, or a puddle under the car. If you see any of them, stop driving and get professional help. It's also worth asking for a brake fluid check at every service. It takes a minute.

General information only. Check your owner's manual, and ask a qualified mechanic if you're not sure.

How to Wash Your Car Without Damaging the Paint

 Washing your car should protect it, but the wrong method can leave fine scratches and dull the paint. Dust and sand on the surface act like sandpaper when you rub them around. Here's a safer way to do it.

A gentle wash protects the paint instead of scratching it.
Photo by Nik on Unsplash

What you need

Two buckets (one for soapy water, one for clean rinse water), car shampoo (not dish soap, which can strip the protective wax), a soft wash mitt or sponge, soft microfibre towels for drying, a hose, and separate brushes or mitts for the wheels.

Step by step

1. Choose the right place and time. Wash in the shade, when the paint is cool. Sun and heat make the soap dry on the paint and leave marks.
2. Rinse first. Spray the whole car to remove loose dust, sand and mud. Don't skip this step.
3. Do the wheels first, with their own brush and mitt. They're the dirtiest part, and you don't want that dirt on the paint.
4. Wash the body from top to bottom. Use the soapy bucket, and rinse the mitt in the clean bucket before you dip it back in the soap. Work in small sections, with light pressure and straight lines.
5. Rinse thoroughly, and don't let the soap dry.
6. Dry gently with clean microfibre towels. Laying the towel on the surface and pulling it softly works well, and it avoids water spots.

Protect the paint

After washing, a layer of wax or paint sealant helps protect the paint from sun, rain and dirt. Follow the instructions on the product, and repeat from time to time.

Mistakes to avoid

Wiping a dusty car with a dry cloth. Using the same dirty sponge on the whole car and on the wheels. Washing in direct sun, or on a hot body. Using strong household cleaners. And pointing a high-pressure jet at the engine bay or at electrical parts.

With an electric or hybrid car, make sure the charging port is closed and locked and the car is switched off before you wash it, and don't spray strong water straight at the charging port or the underside.

Wash often enough that bird droppings and insects don't sit on the paint for long. They can mark the finish.

General information only. Check your owner's manual, and ask a qualified mechanic if you're not sure.

Dashboard Warning Lights: 8 Symbols Every Driver Should Know

 Your dashboard talks to you with small lights. Some are only information, some say "check me soon", and some say "stop now". Knowing the difference can protect you and your car.

Red means stop, amber means check soon.
Photo by Erik Mclean on Unsplash

The colour code

• Red: a serious problem or a safety risk. Stop in a safe place as soon as you can.
• Amber or yellow: something needs attention soon. Get it checked.
• Green or blue: a system is on, like your headlights.

8 symbols to know

1. Oil pressure (red): the oil pressure is too low. Stop the engine as soon as it is safe and do not keep driving. Check the oil level.
2. Battery or charging (red): the charging system has a fault. The car may stop soon, so drive to a safe place or a garage.
3. Coolant temperature (red): the engine is overheating. Pull over and switch off the engine.
4. Brake system (red): first check that the handbrake is released. If the light stays on, there may be a brake fluid or brake system problem, so do not continue driving.
5. Check engine (amber): the engine or emission system has a fault. If it flashes, reduce speed and get help quickly.
6. Tire pressure (amber): one or more tires are low. Check the pressure as soon as it is safe.
7. ABS (amber): the anti-lock system has a fault. Normal braking still works, but without the extra help in an emergency.
8. Airbag (red): the airbag system has a fault, and the airbags may not work in a crash. Get it checked.

Hybrid and electric cars

They have extra lights for the high-voltage battery, the charging system and the "ready" state. A red warning about the high-voltage system should always be taken seriously. Check your manual and stop safely.

Good to know

Symbols look a little different between brands, and some cars show a message on the screen too. Your manual has a full page of dashboard symbols.

Golden tip: Take a photo of the warning-light page in your manual and keep it on your phone. You will have it when you need it.

Which warning light surprised you the most? Tell us in the comments.

This article is for general information only. Cars differ, so always follow your owner's manual and ask a qualified mechanic if you are unsure.

Car Air Conditioning Not Cold? 5 Things to Check

 When the summer heat arrives and your car's air conditioning blows warm air, it is not only uncomfortable. It can be a sign of a small problem that is easy to fix, or of a bigger one that needs a professional. Check these five things first.

A weak A/C often has a simple cause you can check yourself.
Photo by Philipp Katzenberger on Unsplash

5 things to check

1. The settings. Make sure the A/C button is on, the temperature is set to cold, and the recirculation mode is on. Recirculation cools the cabin faster than pulling in hot outside air.
2. The airflow. If the air is weak, the cabin air filter may be dirty. A blocked filter reduces airflow and can cause a musty smell. Many cars let you replace it yourself in a few minutes.
3. The front of the car. The condenser sits behind the grille, in front of the radiator. If it is covered with dirt, leaves or insects, it cannot release heat well. Clean it gently, without bending the fins.
4. The compressor. With the engine running and the A/C on, listen for a click when the compressor starts. If you never hear it, there may be an electrical problem or a low refrigerant level.
5. Leaks and refrigerant. A weak A/C is often caused by a refrigerant leak. Topping it up does not fix the leak, and the gas will escape again.

When to see a professional

If the simple checks do not help, go to a garage. Refrigerant handling needs special equipment, and too much or too little gas can damage the compressor. Strange noises, a hot smell or a cooling fan that does not turn are also reasons to stop and get it checked.

Prevent problems

• Run the A/C for a few minutes regularly, even in winter, to keep the seals lubricated.
• Replace the cabin filter as your manual says.
• Turn the A/C off a minute before you park and let the fan run, to reduce moisture and bad smells.

Safety note

In hybrid and electric cars, the compressor is often powered by the high-voltage system. Leave any work on it to a qualified technician.

Golden tip: Park in the shade, or use a sunshade. It reduces the heat the A/C has to remove.

What is your best trick for a hot car in summer? Tell us in the comments.

This article is for general information only. Cars differ, so always follow your owner's manual and ask a qualified mechanic if you are unsure.

Tire Pressure: How to Check It and Why It Matters

 Tire pressure is one of the simplest things to check and one of the most often forgotten. The correct pressure helps your car grip the road, use less fuel and wear its tires evenly. Wrong pressure does the opposite, and it can be dangerous.

Check the pressure of all four tires, and the spare.
Photo by Obi on Unsplash

Find the right pressure for your car

Do not use the number printed on the tire's side wall. That is the maximum the tire can take, not the pressure your car needs. Look for the sticker on the door frame, inside the fuel flap or in your owner's manual. It may show different values for a normal load and for a full load.

How to check it, step by step

1. Check when the tires are cold. That means before you drive, or after a very short trip. Warm tires give a higher reading.
2. Remove the valve cap and keep it in a safe place.
3. Press the gauge firmly onto the valve and read the pressure.
4. Add air or release some until you reach the correct value.
5. Put the cap back and repeat for all four tires.
6. Do not forget the spare wheel.

Check the tread and the condition

• Look for wear indicators in the grooves. When the tread is level with them, the tire is worn out.
• Look for cracks, bulges, cuts or objects stuck in the rubber.
• Uneven wear (more on one edge) often points to a problem with alignment, suspension or pressure.

The legal minimum tread depth is different in each country, so check your local rules.

Good to know

• Pressure drops when the weather gets cold, so check more often in winter.
• If a tire pressure warning light comes on, do not ignore it. Check all four tires as soon as it is safe.
• Check once a month and before every long trip.

Safety note

Never over-inflate a tire above the maximum shown on its side wall. If a tire has a bulge or a deep cut, replace it and do not drive on it.

Golden tip: Keep a small, good-quality pressure gauge in the glove box. Gauges at service stations are sometimes inaccurate.

How often do you check your tires? Tell us in the comments.

This article is for general information only. Cars differ, so always follow your owner's manual and ask a qualified mechanic if you are unsure.